How Does Glycolic Acid Work?

Features

Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acid in the human body and also in several food substances. As used in cosmetics and chemical facial peels, it is generally synthesized from sugarcane. Glycolic acid is commonly included in skin care products because of its small molecular structure, which allows it to penetrate skin easily.

Function

Glycolic acid functions as an exfoliant, sloughing away dead skin cells which accumulate on the skin surface. Usually these cells flake off about every four weeks, but especially as people age. Dead skin cells tend to build up and cause enlarged pores and more obvious fine lines, giving skin a rougher texture and dulling its appearance. Removal of these cells stimulates healthy new growth of skin and collagen, providing a smoother, clearer and more youthful complexion. Glycolic acid also fights acne by becoming absorbed into the sebaceous follicles, where buildup of dead cells clogs pores and contributes to acne. In addition, glycolic acid is an excellent hydration agent because of its water-binding ability, and many companies sell a complete line of skin care products including glycolic acid treatments along with moisturizers.

Chemical Peels

People interested in more dramatic results can visit a dermatologist or other skin care professional for a glycolic acid chemical peel. Where most skin care products with glycolic acid only include 10 percent of the substance or less, chemical peels can deliver up to 30 percent. The peels reduce and control acne, even rid pigmentation, reduce fine lines, minimize pore size and increase skin softness smoothness.

Procedure

During this type of chemical peel, a glycolic acid solution is briefly applied. It penetrates the upper layers of skin and dissolves the bonding of dead skin cells which prevents them from being sloughed away. Over the next few days, several outer layers of skin become dry and peel away, similar to a sunburn. Skin usually does look sunburned for several days or a week, but afterward, most people will find that it has a more youthful and healthy appearance.

Caution

People interested in a chemical peel must keep in mind that glycolic acid is a very strong substance, and can cause pain and irritation in some people, particularly those with sensitive skin. Glycolic acid is an excellent exfoliant because of its acidity, and in higher concentrations of up to 70 percent is used for rust and grease removal in industrial applications.