- Hair relaxers work to straighten hair thanks to two very powerful chemicals: sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is also called a "lye" relaxer due to the very high pH factor (between 10 and 14) of the chemical. Guanidine hydroxide is also called a "no-lye" relaxer because of a lower pH factor, but it can be just as damaging to the hair as sodium hydroxide. Both chemicals have the potential to burn the scalp, cause hair thinning and hair loss and result in hair breakage. Moreover, both chemicals work in a similar fashion to straighten, or "relax," hair by changing the basic structure of the hair shaft. The chemicals in hair relaxers penetrate deep into the hair shaft and loosen the natural curl pattern located inside the hair cortex. Once the curl has been loosened, the hair becomes straight and this structure cannot be reversed.
- There are three major steps in the process of hair relaxing. First, a protective petroleum-based cream is applied to the hair to protect the scalp from burning and the hair from becoming overly damaged. Second, the chemicals that actually straighten the hair are applied and allowed to set for several hours depending on the length of the hair. Finally, the chemicals are washed off thoroughly and a deep conditioner is applied to keep the hair from breaking.
- Common complaints related to using a hair relaxer include hair brittleness, weakened hair shaft, hair breakage and some hair loss. These are often the result of human error or mismanagement of the powerful chemicals. Thus, it is important to receive the treatment at a reputable salon with an experienced hair stylist. Weekly deep conditioning treatments after getting your hair relaxed is imperative in promoting healthy hair that is less likely to break. The conditioner helps to restore some of the natural essential oils that have been stripped off by the harsh chemicals in the relaxers.
