How Does a Rappel Work?
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Setting Up the Rappel
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To prepare for a single rope rappel, set an anchor. Find a fixed object to which to attach the rappeling rope, or use a eye bolt to make your own. For this, a cordelette is very useful and recommended, as this will evenly divide the stress among at least two or three points. Test the anchors thoroughly before using. Clip into the anchor once tested with a cordelette or a sling while you continue to set up the rappel. This will afford you a degree of protection from a fall. Attach one end of the rope to the anchor. Use a figure-eight knot to attach the rappelling rope to the carabineer, which will clip into the three carabineers of the cordelette anchor. If possible, use a sleeve of nylon webbing to cushion the rappel rope as it falls over the edge of the rock face. This will help avoid damage to the rope.
The Rappel Device
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There are several different types of equally good rappel devices on the market. A figure eight device is commonly used by military and rescue workers. Attach the device to the rope by following the manufacturer's directions. Next, attach a carabineer to the rappel device, making sure to use a locking carabineer, and clip the carabineer and rappel device to your climbing harness. Make sure to securely tighten the locking mechanism of the carabineer. Once you are securely clipped on to the device and line, detach from the anchor point. At this point you will declare loudly that you are "rappel on."
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The Rappel
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Once you are positioned directly in line with the rope, firmly grasp the rope with your non-dominate hand about a foot above the rappel device. With your dominate hand firmly grip the rope that is hanging below you and bring the rope snugly against your dominate side hip. Your dominant hand will act as a breaking device and will be aided by the pressure of your hip against the rope. To achieve the rappel, let the rope slide through your dominate hand and thus through the rappel device. You will now begin to slide along the rope. Make sure to keep your feet firmly planted and knees slightly bent. Do not bounce, but rather walk down the rock face. This should not be a rapid descent as seen in the movies. When you are on the ground, unclip from the rappel rope and declare loudly "rappel off."
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