How Does Marinade Make Meat Taste Better?

The Chemistry of Cooking

Our first ancestors didn't cook their meat. Thankfully, our tastes--and teeth--have adapted to cooking the meat we consume, opening a whole world of new tastes. Cooking alters the texture and taste of meat because heat transforms the sugars and amino acids into the molecules that turn the meat brown. At the same time, it releases other compounds that give roasting meat its characteristic smell. Lower heat, or a "slow oven," allows more of the flavor of the meat itself to remain and higher heat breaks down the sugars faster. Fat contains a great deal of sugar and aids in the retention of the meat's flavor. As a result, we grill or broil meats that contain a high percentage of fat locked in tissue (marbleized) and slow-cook or steam less fat-laden cuts.

The acids and enzymes in certain plants and fungi break down protein in muscles and connective tissue, "tenderizing" the surface of the meat. Using certain flavors with the acid will replace the flavor lost in the cooking process with other flavors that will complement the natural flavors of the meat. The sugars in marinades supplement and alter the flavor of the meat as the naturally occurring sugars and amino acids of the meat fade. Since marinades will only affect the meat with which they come into contact, most cooks use marinade for small or flat cuts of meat. The two tastes you start out with are seldom the taste you end up with due to the cooking process, so the wise cook reads up before starting to mix up marinades. Recent research has also developed a theory that the acid in marinades draws certain compounds out of the meat that become carcinogens when heated.

Start by trying store-bought marinades. Ingredients will include an acid, usually vinegar, sugar and cooking oil. Few will list the specific spices they use, since that would give away the recipe. Try prepared marinades on little steaks and kabobs and leave some plain to compare taste and texture. Marinate your meat in a plastic bag or in a crockery bowl for a few hours to allow the marinade to work. Be sure to turn the meat frequently so the entire surface of the meat gets covered. Graduate to making your own marinades, starting with acids---wine, vinegar and even cola will work---add oil and sugar. Use oil for its flavor---sesame, olive and grape seed oils have very different tastes. From there, you're on your own. Use soy sauce and ginger for a teriyaki flavor or sea salt and ground mustard for a more American chicken strip. Pretty soon, you'll be "doctoring" Italian dressing and using leftover savories to make your own marinades to please your guests. Although it may offend your Puritan work ethic, discard your marinade after use. If it's done its job, it contains compounds that you don't want to return to the meat.