How Does Leather Work?

What is leather?

Leather is cured skin from animals. It is made primarily from cattle skin. The chemicals that cure the skins prevent the harvested animal hide from decaying.

Worldwide demand and political issues

In the meat industry, leather is a by-product. However, some sources say that leather is even more lucrative than the meat itself. For example, in Vietnam, forecasted leather sales are estimated to reach over 4 billion dollars in 2008. The specs for a single, third world tannery showed that one processing center can tan between 400 and 500 skins per day.

There is a controversy brewing in US leather sales, because trade regulations are allowing more liberal standards with regards to saying a product was 'Made in the USA.' For example, as of 1999, Vietnam was only using 20 percent of its own domestic leather in its leather products industry. The remaining leather came from Asia, Europe, and the US. In this case, a suitcase coming from Vietnam might say 'Made in the USA.'

Some political scientists are looking at the human and environmental costs of leather and point to industry-specific illnesses in leather workers, to argue for better oversight and regulation in worldwide leather factories. Health concerns of tanneries have become a worldwide concern. Activists are concerned particularly about chromium leather because the process has been shown to cause cancer.

Additionally, cattle and other farm animals use a great deal of natural resources. For example, in some drier environments, a thousand acres of land might be needed to feed four cattle in a year.

What chemicals are used to create leather?

Leather is cured in a variety of ways:
Vegetable tanned leather is particularly popular because it can be oiled to improve its waterproof nature. Nappa leather is a particularly soft chromium tanned leather. Aldehyde tanned leather uses natural products like brains and oils to produce the compounds that soften and cure the skins. Buckskin is one of these specially oil-cured leathers. Aldehyde leathers are often soft, water absorbent, and washable. Other kinds of cured skins includes the categories of Alum leather and rawhide.

Types of garment leather

Deerskin is a highly sought after leather because it is hard to procure, and it is very tough. Unusual leathers include slink, which is a leather made from the skin of unborn calves, and stingray leather, which is used to make items like purses and custom motorcycle seats. Vachetta is untreated leather, which is easily stained and darkens over time - it is also used in purses. Bonded and bicast leathers are made from a man-made process that binds leather fibers together with man-made polymers. Patent leather has a shiny 'patina' due to a polymer coating.

Trade gear

Horse saddles made from leather are praised for their ability to fit the seat of the rider over time, as well as their breathabilty in summertime. Likewise, a good quality leather bike or motorcycle saddle can wear well. They are especially appreciated by the avid biker who likes distance tours rather than short races, for the sheer comfort of the leather saddle over the plastic or cheap leather. Some high-end automobiles also sport fine quality leather seats. Motorcycle gear (such as boots, pants, and jackets) is not only stylish, but it provides an essential armor for the rider against falls and scrapes. Leather luggage is popular for the first class traveler because it wears well, is waterproof, and retains its shape and patina better than canvas or nylon.

Value of leather cuts

The top layer of the skin is referred to as full grain. Belting leather is a strong, coarse leather that is of high quality, made from full grain leather that is tanned with vegetable oils. Corrected-grain leather refers to skin that has been sanded to hide any imperfections. This skin may also be dyed to hide scars or bites. Suede is a form of split leather, and its rough texture can be found on both sides. Manufacturers may attempt to hide the rough nature of one of these sides by smoothing it down with glue. A reverse suede garment is actually a full grain or corrected grain leather with the top or epidermis side sewn into the inner part of the garment, leaving the rougher, inner portion of the leather to show as if it were suede on the outside.