How Do Perms Work?
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The hair shaft is composed of several levels of structure. Within the original twisted protein strands, the protein is held together by chemical bonds that are called disulfide bonds. These bonds are responsible for holding the hair in the shape it is in, whether it is straight or curly. The hair permanent resets the disulfide bonds, either to create curl in straight hair, or to create straight hair in curly hair.
After the hair is put in the shape it is going to be in, the disulfide bonds are reset in their new position, generally with hydrogen peroxide, so that the shaft holds its new intended shape.
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Disulfide bonds are released with a chemical solution called ammonium thioglycolate. An additional solution of 4 percent thioglycolate is added to the hair shaft to help release the previous shape of the hair, and then it is reset in curlers or straightened by combing it out. The reaction is then quenched with a solution of hydrogen peroxide.
Extra curly hair is treated with a very basic solution (9.3-9.5) of ammonium thioglycolate, then put on rollers with a slightly higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than in less curly hair (5 percent). Sodium bromate rather than hydrogen peroxide is used to quench the reaction. Straightening with ammonium thioglycolate, or "thio," is less harsh on the hair than lye or Guanidine hydroxide relaxers.
Chemical hair relaxers for curly hair use sodium hydroxide (lye) or Guanidine Hydroxide, but these relaxers are generally more harsh than perms. -
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If you wash your hair before you apply the permanent, you may overly dry your hair shaft. Be sure to try a little portion of the chemicals you will be using on your scalp before you intend to perm, to make sure it does not cause an allergic reaction or that it does not hurt hurt the hair shaft. (Keep in mind that perming solutions contain concentrations of the same chemical that is designed to remove unwanted hair on the legs, bikini area and lips.)
Using chemical relaxers such as lye or guanidine hydroxide to relax hair that is already permed can be extremely harmful to your hair.
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Hair flat irons and curling irons provide a versatile alternative to perming or straightening hair. Another option is a combination of the curling iron and flat iron that uses a steel roller and the power of steam and brushes to flatten or curl the hair, according to how the wand is utilized by the user.
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