First, the bride and the wedding dress designer choose a design for the wedding gown. Many designers have portfolios showing photos of past dresses they have made, as well as books and magazines, to give the bride ideas. Brides may also already have their own ideas or pictures of what they want the dress to look like. Once the bride and the designer agree on the style details such as the bodice, neckline, skirt and sleeves, the designer can provide a sketch of the dress.
Choosing the Fabric
Along with choosing a design, the bride and the designer must choose fabric, since this will have a huge impact on how the dress looks. Many designers have samples of fabrics they often work with. A slim, sheath style dress may work well with satin, taffeta or other fairly stiff fabric, while long, loose Renaissance style sleeves require a sheer fabric such as double georgette, chiffon or voile. The bride and designer must also choose any trim and embellishments, such as lace or beading, that goes with the fabric.
Measuring and Fitting
Bridal designers must take detailed measurements of the bride, so that the dress will fit correctly. Ideally, the bride should wear the shoes and undergarments she will wear with the finished dress, in order to get the most accurate fit. Some designers make a muslin, or cheap cotton, version of the dress before working with the actual bridal fabric, so that the bride can try on the cotton version and the designer can make adjustments as needed. Some designers may require only one or two initial measuring and fitting sessions, while others may require more. Complex dresses may require more fittings than simple gowns.
Cutting and Sewing
Once designers have a sketch of the dress and the bride's measurements, they can cut pieces for the dress by draping the material on a dressmaker's model, or by flat drafting patterns. Some designers may start with patterns they have made for other dresses and modify them as needed for a particular custom dress. Designers may do the cutting and sewing themselves, or they may work with a team of seamstresses who sew the dress together and embellish it with lace, beads, custom embroidery or other details. Most designers use sewing machines when possible and hand sewing as needed.
Trying On the Finished Dress
When the dress is partially or mostly completed, designers may do more fittings with the bride to check the fit and the style of the dress. Many designers do such fittings before adding time-consuming embellishments, in case they need to make adjustments. When the bride and the designer are both satisfied that the dress looks right, the designer can complete any necessary details or changes.