Suiting Basics: Suit Up for Summer
How to Stay (and Look) Cool When the Temperatures Soar
Find a suit that is classic, timeless, slim-cut and not too boxy in style.
— Caroline Watson, celebrity fashion stylist
If you're like most guys, you're probably happy to pack away the heavy coats, chunky sweaters and bulky boots when the weather gets warmer. But unless you wear suits to the office every day, that probably leaves you staring at a bunch of polo shirts, shorts and khakis. And those aren't going to be useful if you've got a nice dinner out with a paramour coming up, or a big event like a wedding to attend. Enter the summer suit: a versatile wardrobe asset that'll have you staying cool -- and turning heads.
The Makings of a Summer Suit
Cut and fabric are two important factors in selecting the right summer suit. Go for something light but functional. Materials such as linen, seersucker, silk and poplin both look good and keep you comfortable in the heat. Whether your suit must get you through a day at the office or an evening at a social gathering, the goal is simple: not to sweat through your outfit.
“Find something that is classic, timeless, slim-cut and not too boxy in style,” advised celebrity fashion stylist Caroline Watson, who has worked with David Beckham, Ryan Phillippe and Matthew Morrison. “Look for a one- or two-button style to bring in the waistline and add structure to the shoulders. Colors should be light -- for example, grays and off-whites -- and fabrics should be equally light in texture." Watson suggests cotton-polyester or a cotton-linen mix.
Another material option is linen. Although it's notorious for its ability to instantly wrinkle, that needn’t be a bad thing, given the right venue. “Depending on where you wear it, the wrinkled look can actually have an edgy appeal to it,” said David Appel, design director and co-CEO of the men’s fashion line Cohesive & Co. “Clothing doesn’t have to be pristine to be attractive. There’s a certain ruggedness that a worn-in suit has.”
And don’t buy into the fallacy that stark-white suits are summer-appropriate. A lot of men can’t carry them off – and rightly so. Off-white is more versatile than white and generally more flattering on most guys.
Plan to spend $250 to $500 on a suit in the above-mentioned fabrics. Hundreds of good choices exist in this price bracket. However, should you have a preference for tropical-weight wool – a popular choice in the summer-suit world – expect to pay considerably more: Fine wool suits from top designers can easily top $1,000.
Make It Your Own
Owning a good suit means nothing if you don’t know how to wear it. “Treat it as a blank canvas; you can decorate it in so many ways,” Appel said. “Dress the summer suit up with a knitted tie. Take it off and you instantly dress the summer suit down without even having to change shirts.”
Shirts, shoes and accessories dress your suit up or down, giving you the opportunity to wear it in a variety of settings.
“Summer suits look fantastic teamed with loafers, yachting shoes or moccasins,” Watson opined. “Button-down shirts should be light in color, like chambray or crisp white. Experiment with light-colored pinstripe or check shirts to brighten up a solid suit.”
And, if you’re wearing it to the appropriate function, feel free to have fun. “Add a bright-colored polka dot handkerchief to the front pocket of a sports coat to give a smart/casual look,” Watson advised.
But don't be so casual when it comes to your feet. “Wearing a linen jacket and linen pants with sandals is a big no-no,” added Watson.
Dress for Your Body Type
While getting a custom-made (or "bespoke") suit is obviously the ideal move, it isn’t financially viable for most. As such, ensure that you dress for your body type, so that your off-the-rack purchase can look like it was made just for you.
“A two-button jacket works best, as it fits all body types, no matter how big, tall, skinny or short you are,” explained Watson. “The key is to keep the suit as slender as possible [so it appears it was] cut for your body type. There is no need to drown in a suit and make it wear you," he said.
If you’re sporting a few extra pounds, one of the worst things you can do is attempt to conceal it under baggy clothing. If you’re lucky enough to have an athletic body, go for European-style brands, which offer cuts on the slim side.
“When worn the right way, a summer suit is guaranteed to draw compliments,” Appel concluded. “You’ll feel cool and look cool.”
- Photo Credit Mark Wilson/Getty Images News/Getty Images
