A Jeweler's Guide to Quick Fixes

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A diamond is generally more durable than the metal of its setting, so if left rattling around loose, it can actually cut its way out of its prongs.

— Heather Straw, founder and designer, Nashelle Designs

Shine On

Sometimes your favorite pieces of jewelry get relegated to the back of a drawer simply because they’ve become tarnished with wear. Fortunately, there's an easy fix. “Tarnish is just the air reacting with chemicals in the metal,” said Judith Adelson, a Los Angeles-based jewelry designer, who notes that a simple polishing is all that's needed in this case.

But if you don't have time to get to the store -- or your budget is stretched -- Adelson has an at-home solution: “One trick you can do is to take a small glass of hot water, add a pinch of baking soda and a pinch of salt, then place your jewelry on a piece of aluminum foil at the bottom of the glass and watch the tarnish disappear."

Los Angeles-based jewelry designer Misa Hamamoto has another solution for tarnish. (Note: this one's not for your pricey pieces.) “An at-home trick I use on my less expensive, less fragile jewelry is a little bit of plain toothpaste -- the white paste works best -- avoid gels or anything with flavor crystals,” she says. “Add water and use a baby-soft toothbrush to avoid any scratches. Just scrub very gently and rinse the jewelry with water afterward.”

It's important to know what your jewelry is made of before you start cleaning it. Some metals need careful handling with cleaning chemicals and abrasives. “Do not polish vermeil or any plated pieces with a treated polishing cloth or any polishing chemicals,” Hamamoto warns. “The polishing agent can rub off the plating. For vermeil and plated pieces, I recommend getting a piece of plain, soft cotton and buffing gently.”

Most tarnishing can be prevented by limiting air exposure. “The best way to store jewelry isn't a fancy jewelry box,” Hamamoto says. “There's nothing better than sealed plastic bags. Even a sealed sandwich bag will do.”

More Ideas -- and When to See a Pro

If a stone has popped out of its setting, don’t despair. There are some fixes for this, but it depends on the materials involved. “If it's inexpensive costume jewelry, the gem was probably originally set with just jewelry/craft glue,” Hamamoto explains. “So you can use glue to reset the stone. But if you're dealing with an expensive stone and jewelry, then most definitely take it to a jeweler to fix. You don't want to damage the stone in the process of trying to fix it yourself, plus, professional tools and machinery may be needed to secure the stone, depending on the setting and metal.”

Jewelry designer Heather Straw, founder of Nashelle Designs, agrees that more intricate pieces require the help of a jeweler, but that in less expensive costume jewelry, an at-home fix is fine. “If the stone has a flat back and just popped off, glue it back in,” Straw says. “Two-Part five-minute epoxy is great for quick fixes and is easy to find. But no Superglue. It makes a mess and isn’t usually waterproof."

Straw warns against taking any risks with a pronged setting, especially one containing a diamond. “Any stone setting with prongs needs a professional," she says. "While it may seem like a quick squeeze with your pliers or that a little bend would fix everything, you’ll more likely damage your piece than do any good."

Finally, a word on diamonds – hands off. "They may be the reputed hardest substance known to man, but they are actually prone to breakage at flaw points and natural lines of cleavage, so they’re best left to a professional," says Straw. "If you ever hear your diamond ‘ticking’ or making any noise when tapped with a finger in its setting, head to the jewelry store for maintenance. A diamond is generally more durable than the metal of its setting, so if left rattling around loose, it can actually cut its way out of its prongs.”

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