A Plaid Guide for Guys

• Print this article

The bottom line with plaids is simple. Take the plunge, mix it up and have fun, but like a fine Highland single malt whiskey, know when to say 'when'.

— Jonathan Harrison Kanarek, Owner of Everything's Jake, a vintage store in Los Angeles.

The History of Tartan

If it comes up in a pub conversation, it may be best to play along with the common misconception that the tartan originated in Scotland. Textile historians, however, would be quick to point out that the pattern was popping up in both Central Europe and Asia well before they turned the calendar from B.C. to A.D. Some well-preserved fragments have been found in the Celtic ruins of Salzburg, Austria -- and the Cherchen Man, a 3,000-year-old mummy uncovered in Western China, was reportedly discovered wearing tartan-like leggings.

But the Scots were the ones who fully embraced the variations of the crisscrossed pattern. And since the fabrics were made of yarns dyed using natural pigments specific to a region, the tartan eventually became an identifier of one's region and clan.

"Although the plaid weaves were being produced in the Highland regions of Scotland in the 16th century,  it was only well into the 17th and 18th centuries that the plaid took on a level of uniformity of construction," Jonathan Kanarek, owner of Everything's Jake in Los Angeles, and one of Esquire's 2007 Best Dressed Real Men in America said in an interview. "It was the locality of the dyes that started the colors of the plaids signifying one region from another. Think Bloods or Crips, and how you would not want to be wearing the wrong color in the wrong neighborhood. This was more important when the warring factions of the Scots and the English wore their own version of 'colors' into battle."

The Tartan Trend

From royalty to lumberjacks to modern day hipsters -- with a whole lot of fans in between -- the tartan has miraculously persevered without ever having to truly evolve. It remains to this day a military uniform, a symbol of royalty and the tacitly accepted staple of countercultures that reject the notions of conformity.

"It may seem like plaids have a way of making their marks on the fashion world in cycles for the big trends, but in some form or another, they never really go away," said Kanarek, who is quick to offer up a prime example. "Can you say 'Burberry' anyone? Now there's a plaid that's one of the most widely recognizable patterns in the world of fashion."

The tartan's most significant toehold into North American pop culture would most likely be the Pendleton plaids worn by the Beach Boys during their 1960s heyday. Prepsters and surfers suddenly found themselves dressing alike -- and the iconic plaids lingered until resurfacing with a well-worn fury during the emergence of the grunge scene in the Pacific Northwest. But it was the 1970s, a decade more often associated with polyester and corduroy, which eventually landed tartan on the counterculture and, therefore, cutting-edge fashion map.

"The plaid fabric had one of its largest visible comebacks during the hard-core punk scene of the early 1970s," said Kanarek. "Since the tartan was associated with the British elite, it was the same patterns worn in different and openly irreverent ways that were used as a statement of anti-establishment against the upper classes."

How to Wear Tartan Today

With the tartan, it's important to understand that there's enough crisscrossing, multiple colors and history to keep both the eye and the mind occupied -- so it's best to follow that one unflagging rule of fashion: Keep it simple.

"It's very versatile, so you can either dress it up, or dress it down," said British-born, Los Angeles-based stylist and fashion writer Clare Mukherjee in an interview. "But with plaid and tartan, less is more, so use it in small doses and stay away from anything too loud and colorful so that you can keep the pieces relatively muted."

You should find a pattern that speaks to you -- either for its boldness or its subtlety. The best way to stick a toe into the tartan waters is perhaps, by picking out that quintessentially adopted American staple, the plaid shirt.

"It's an essential item that all men must own one of," Mukherjee said. "Flannel or cotton, it's a great daytime or weekend look, especially if you opt for a form-fitting or slim cut so that you avoid looking lumberjackish."

If you're still unsure about tackling the tartan in your wardrobe, Mukherjee noted, "Steven Alan makes the best plaid shirts out there in simple colors. So try pairing one with a simple piece like a pair of dark, slim-cut jeans -- and avoid anything resembling work wear, such as stone-washed denim or Red Wing shoes. Keep things simple and clean to stay modern and on trend."

If plaid shirts aren't your thing and you've have moved past thrift-store shopping and sold off your Nirvana vinyl, yet still find yourself with a taste for tartan sauce in your wardrobe, there are other ways to incorporate the fabric of anarchists and the aristocracy alike into your style.

"Another way to work the tartan trend is with accessories," Mukherjee said. "Hit up J.Crew, Ralph Lauren and Steven Alan to find a veritable feast of plaid bow ties, ties and pocket squares, but be sure to sport only one of these at a time unless you are a bit of a dandy!"

It's a bold pattern, so even when you're working with ancillary aspects of your outfit or your wardrobe, a modest show of restraint can prevent a tartan travesty.

"It can be said over again, but plaid must always be used sparingly," added Kanarek. "An elegant tartan cashmere scarf will certainly complement a tweed coat when the weather turns to the cool side, or you can try topping off a fall ensemble of corduroy trousers with a cashmere cardigan and a tartan eight-panel pageboy cap. With a contrasting scarf, it's an outfit that's simple, functional and elegant."

Fortunately for the fashion conscious, men's hats have made an unprecedented comeback -- one that happily overlooks both the past transgressions of the baseball cap -- and the overuse of the porkpie.

"A plaid hat will work, but think structure and clean lines, and go classic and country gent instead of hip-hop beanie," said Mukherjee. "A flat cap or trilby can work brilliantly, but keep this the only plaid element of your look. Again, less is more."

Whatever you do, beware of the tartan pants. Good for a laugh, but in the end you'll more than likely look like you've lost your way from a golf course -- in the 1970s.

"Plaid pants must be avoided at all costs," Mukherjee said with a laugh. "It's just too much, and to make a British pop-culture reference, too much Rupert The Bear."

Kanarek, who said he lives by the credo "love what you wear," summed up his feelings on tartans and plaids when he said, "The bottom line with plaids is simple. Take the plunge, mix it up and have fun, but like a fine Highland single malt whiskey, know when to say 'when.' "

Read Next:

• Print this article