Why Does the Hem Flare When Sewing Rayon Fabric?

Rayon can be tricky to sew.

Rayon is a man-made fabric that was originally created as a cheaper alternative to silk. It is a versatile material that is highly absorbent, easy to care for and comfortable. Rayon is often blended with cotton, acrylic, wool and polyester for apparel production.

Causes

Needle size, stitch type and thread type can contribute to a flared hem, which is the result of the fabric overstretching and losing its shape. Sewing a hem without interfacing may also result in flaring.

Prevention/Solution

Use a 4.0/75 stretch twin needle in your sewing machine and set the stitch length to 2.5. A polyester or polyester/cotton blend thread will work the best on rayon. Insert a strip of interfacing into your seam--this will stop the fabric from stretching out of shape as it is being sewed.

Considerations

Adjust the tension on your sewing machine to reduce any pulling of the fabric. Keep your rayon material flat and level while sewing to reduce puckered or flared hems.

References

• Fabrics.net: Fabric Properties and Distinctions: Is That Silk?
• Emma One Sock: Sewing Guides
• Fibersource.com: Rayon Fiber