The History of the Ice Axe

Ice axes are a multipurpose tool used in mountaineering and climbing. This is perhaps one of the oldest tools used in mountaineering and a representative symbol of mountain climbing throughout history. Ice ax design has changed dramatically over the decades, becoming a lighter and more efficient tool. Ice axes were and are still used in glacier travel, snow and ice conditions on an ascent or decent, boot ax belays and for implementing self-arrests.

The Beginning

The first ice ax is recognized by many as that used by Jacque Balmat in 1786 during a climb of Mont Blanc. It looked like a small machete with a flat pick instead of a blade. He also carried a long staff-like stick, common to mountaineers of the time.

1800s

By the late 1800s the ice ax was a staple tool for the mountaineer. The shafts were made out of hardwoods such as hickory and had a simple pick and a small hatchet-like adz.

Height

The first ice axes were much taller and heavier, compared with the modern versions. They were not only used for technical purposes but doubled as a sort of walking stick. Some were as tall as a meter or more but eventually 25 inches became the normal height for a mountaineering ax.

Function and Sport

Ice axes were used much of the time to cut steps into steep ice. With the adz of the ax, mountaineers would -- one by one -- notch little steps into icy mountainsides to reach their destination. Vertical ice climbing and vertical ice tools were not invented until crampons were invented in the early 1900s. Before all four limbs could be equipped with metal, vertical or overhanging walls of ice were not generally possible to scale and steep inclines were a laborious process. Vertical climbing really didn't take off as a sport until the 1960s when technique and the design of crampons improved.

Rise of a New Generation

During the world wars, alpinism became of interest to more and more people, but until the 1960s the designs of the ice ax remained relatively similar to on another with a heavy shaft and pick which was much flatter than today's versions.

Today

In the 1960s Yvon Chuinard created a much better and more curved design for the icepick ,which is more effective for climbing steeper ice. He also shortened the height of the average ax by about three inches to save weight and to make it more maneuverable. Today ice axes are made with ultralight, sleek designs and strong materials such as aluminum shafts and stainless steel picks. Most models are made in varying sizes for different sized people (50cm to 75cm) and weigh only 13 to 15 ounces.

Resources

• Grivel History