Paver Path

This appears really nice looking for a walk way. If I was a home owner rather than a renter this would be a project for me.

First, beginning with removing 4-6" of soil, pouring the 4" paver base and 1" of sand, laying the (2" high?) pavers, the path height will be 11-13" from the cleared bottom soil. Is that correct?

Second, what prevents the pea gravel, the sand, and the paver base from spreading? Why isn't a 1x4 or a 1x6 used on the path's perimeter to prevent that?

Third, with nothing to hold the material in place, what are the chances of the pea gravel being washed beyond the path borders when heavy amounts of rainfall occur?

This won't work well where there is heavy tree cover, like in these photos. The path will soon get constantly covered with leaves, which even when cleaned often will leave enough residue for weeds to grow in the gravel. You would be much better off with cement, pavers or solid stepping stones. Gravel only works where there are no trees.

Good point Luke. however they make a spray on "lock" for mulch and gravel that effectively binds it together. if you used that on the gravel it may lock it together enough that a leaf blower would be able to remove the leaves without disturbing the gravel.

Lily Pod, it is pretty, but I agree with Lynne, it is a safety hazard. They should be level with the ground, and I personally think closer together. Mine are this far apart, and I have to take longer steps than is natural for me, perfect for a man maybe, but not childen and people. As a homeowner, you are liable if anyone trips on one of these and hurts themself. ..................................I want to comment on Cathy Preston's question. Where are you gettng that figure? If you dig down 6 inches, then fill back in with 4 inches of paver base and 1 inch of sand, you only have one inch below the original grown surface, meaning the pavers should stick up only 1 inch. ...Take out 6, put in 5 = 1", not 11-13"......Darren, thanks for that information. I didn't know such a thing existed. That should take care of the leaves with easy removal. I wish I had heard of this a long time ago.

Hi,

I agree with people who mention problems with leaf fall. We installed a quartz pebble path between trees last summer and now it is full of leaf bits, almost impossible to get out. Also we found the pebbles too soft to walk on comfortably so are now thinking of imbedding stones into it but keeping them level with the pebbles. Still not sure what to do about the leaf droppings though. We did install bender board each side of the path before shoveling the pebbles so at least it stays in one place.

@Cathy Preston, no, you're adding all the numbers together. You have to TAKE AWAY (subtract) 4-6" of soil, then add 4" of paver base, so the greatest possible finished-height above ground level would be 3". (That's if you remove 4" of soil at the beginning, in which case adding the paver base would get you back to ground level again; then you'd add 1" sand and 2"-thick pavers for a total of 3". If you removed 6" of soil at the beginning, the finished height would be 1" above ground level, because 4" of paver base would still leave you 2" BELOW ground level, then 1" of paver base would get you to 1" below ground level, then a 2" high paver stone placed on top of that would take you to 1" above ground level.)

While this pathway may look nice, there are some considerations you should be aware of as it is not practical as designed. With time all the materials will settle even further unless contained with fabric (just the same as building a road). The sides also must be contained with some kind of edging (pressure treated wood, plastic, metal, etc.). The real problem then begins: Mother Nature will want to cover this path. With a sidewalk you can sweep it and bleach it to keep in looking like new. With this path the best you can do is to add a pre-emergence in March and September to keep the weeds from taking over, but that new look is going to fade away.