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Every chainsaw owner should have this gear, a bar vise, the right size file for your chain and a pair of cut resistant gloves.
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Jeff Farris
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1.
Every chainsaw owner should have this gear, a bar vise, the right size file for your chain and a pair of cut resistant gloves.
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The vise is designed to be pounded into a stump for field work. I drilled a couple holes in a portable work table and it drops in and wedges solid.
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Hold the bar up just a bit and tighten the screw against the bar. The chain will spin freely, but the bar will be rock solid.
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The file should be held perpendicular to the bar and parallel with the cutting edge. Most brands of chain also have an engraved line at the back of the tooth that shows the correct filing angle. I use the fingers of the hand on the bar to control the angle of the file and keep it correct. Make 5 or 6 strokes with the file for maintenance. If you've neglected the chain for a while, you might need 8 or 10 strokes per tooth. Pressure should only be made on the push stroke, from the inside of the tooth toward the outside. Let the file away from the tooth as you draw it back for the next stroke.
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Advance the chain and repeat the process for the next tooth that faces the same direction (second tooth back from the one you just finished).
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Continue all the way around the chain until the marked tooth comes back around. Since you're filing every other tooth, shown here is the last tooth to be filed from this side of the saw.
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Walk around to the other side of the saw and do the same thing for the other set of teeth. Start with the first tooth behind the marked tooth.
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If you're stuck in the field without a marker, most chains have the joining link colored. That is the link where the chain can be taken apart. Shown here it is yellow. You can use this as your marker, but it is easy to miss from the other side of the saw.
When your saw drops straight through the log and the chips come out fluffy, you know you've got your chain dialed in.
Keeping a chain sharp is a lot easier than bringing one back from dead dull. I touch up my chain 5 or 6 strokes on each tooth every time I add fuel. It takes just a few minutes and will keep your chain cutting like a brand new one all the time. It takes a little practice, but just remember, pressure only on the push, work from the inside of the tooth to the outside and watch that angle to keep it parallel to the cutting edge.
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the person how wrote this is almost right but there is some info they haven't told you.
as a tree surgeon i can tell you no matter how sharp you make your cutting teeth if you dont file your rakers down then your chain will not cut as these control the height of the cutting teeth on your saw and remove saw dust from cut
Dan,
You're right, of course. The rakers do need attention, but only about every tenth filing or so. Over-ground rakers cause more problems than under-ground ones!
So everyone knows what we're talking about, the raker is the part that stick up in front of the cutting tooth. Take a flat file and hit the top of the raker 4 or 5 strokes about every tenth filing, or if you notice that the teeth are sharp, but the chain doesn't seem to bite well.
be the first to like this.You should use a file holder designed to keep the file at the correct angles.
be the first to like this.Unless you're a professional cutter (and even most of those guys) U should use a file guide that is set for the correct angle for your chain. This is super important and to teach folks the method above is wrong.
be the first to like this.This is cutting tree limbs not surgery. Eye balling the angle with the original angle is close enough. Just align your file along that line and it'll be fine. One or two swipes with the file and move on to the next.
be the first to like this.is there a common size of file and what is a ballpark amount i would need to spend
be the first to like this.
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