Traditional Japanese Male Clothing
The kimono is the traditional Japanese male dress. Its worn during the Japanese tea ceremony, the flower viewing, weddings and other formal occasions. A informal kimono called a yukata--a cotton bath robe--is worn by Japanese men at home.
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History of the Kimono
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The Heian period (794 – 1185) marks the introduction of traditional Japanese kimono and attire. The ladies of the court wore up to twelve layers of robes with a short-sleeved undergarment called a kosode. By the 14th century, the kosode became outerwear and the garment gathered at the hip by a narrow sash or obi. The width of the obi grew during the Tokugway period, theory suggests the obi’s width grew with the popularity of the Kabuki theater, in which women’s roles were played by onnagata (men) who covered their male portions with a broad obi.
Kimono Fabrics and Style
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A kimono is made in a variety of fabrics ranging from cotton sateen to silk brocade. The style of the kimono consists of four main strips of fabric and four additional strips that cover the body and serve as its sleeves. Smaller strips provide the front panel and collar. A kimono is ankle-length with long, loose sleeves. In “Introducing Japan”, Donald Richie explains that kimono styles have changed over the centuries; however, the basic form has survived intact. The accessories of a kimono are tabi, or socks, and zori or geta, which are sandals or clogs.
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Kimono Interpretation and Effects
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The kimono’s esthetic focus is the overlapping colors of the robes, arranged in relation to the season. The design and details of the kimono communicate the wearer’s age, marital status and sexual proclivities. In the book “All – Japan: The Catalogue of Everything Japanese”, Oliver Statler explains, “the choice of colors, designs and material cannot be made randomly, but is governed by a precise code of social appropriateness.”
Western Influences and the Traditional Kimono
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At the end of the 19th century, traditional Japanese costume and Western dress met, and the kimono was adorned with high-collared shirts and leather shoes. By 1910, however, the clothes of the West and the traditional Kimono separated. The two styles coexist; Donald Richie writes, “that the tendency to isolate things Japanese from things foreign is observed; a wristwatch and western make-up are the only elements tolerated with the traditional kimono."
Kimono for Men and Women
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A kimono for a man displays masculine designs and conservative colors. The kimono background colors are blue, brown, gray or black. A kimono worn by a man is sewn closed under the arm. A woman’s kimono sleeves are fuller and longer and open under the arm. Kimonos worn by women are vibrant, colorful and display detailed feminine patterns. A kimono worn by a married or older woman is called a tomesode; it is short-sleeved, and the patterns are somber and subdued.
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References
- Photo Credit Japan doll image by Dmitry Sosenushkin from Fotolia.com
