Difference Between Regular and Sateen Cotton

Warp and weft determine the weave.

"Regular," "sateen," "satin," "flat," "damask" and several other such words in the textile lexicon refer to a type of weave, not to a type of fiber. Types of fiber are cotton, wool, linen, ramie, silk and polyester, just to name a few. The phrases "regular cotton" and "sateen cotton" refer to two different weaves of cotton.

Fiber Weight

As fibers are processed and designated for use in various textile applications, one of the attributes that determines the difference in look, texture, drape and longevity from regular weave cotton to sateen weave cotton is the weight of the fiber used. The technical term "denier" connotes fiber weight and in high-end fabrics may even be part of the index for fabric specifications available from the supplier for the consumer upon request.

Warp

The "warp" consists of the fibers that run the full length of the loom and thus also run the full length of the yardage, which is woven. As is the case in many finished fabrics, the warp may be of any acceptable weight according to the capacity of the machinery used to weave the fabric.

Weft

The "weft" consists of the fibers that run crosswise of the loom and thus are the fibers that are woven with the warp from side to side. The selvage is easily distinguishable in that it is the tightly woven edge of the fabric. Just like the warp, a weft thread of any denier suitable for the machinery at the mill may be used for weaving.

Fabric Weight

The fabric weight will be determined by the weight of the warp and weft fibers used during the weaving process. The final weight of the fabric will influence the drape and "hand" of the fabric. The fabric weight in regular cotton and sateen cotton may vary from piece to piece, depending upon the specifications submitted to the mill by the textile designer.

Sateen Weave

As a general rule the term "sateen" applies to textiles woven for upholstery or drapery. Concerning finished goods, it can also refer to household products such as table and bed dressings. The sateen weave is different from a regular weave in that it is more compact and has a shiny face side and a dull back side. If the fibers and the weaving methods are superior to those used in a regular weave product, then it is logical to conclude that the "sateen" weave is superior in quality.

Regular Weave

A fabric defined as having a "regular" finish will look the same, with only slightly detectable differences, from the face side to the back side. This is due to the fact that in a regular weave the warp and weft fibers are usually identical. The weaving method is tight but the fibers are still evenly distributed by the spindle. This is not the case with gauze, for instance. Even though a regular weave is not shiny, if fibers used to weave a sateen finish are inferior to those used for a regular finish, the regular finish fabric will last longer.