Agility Training for Climbing

Currently the fastest growing dog sport, agility competitions first appeared in England in 1978, modeled after horse jumping competitions. Agility trials consist of several jumps, tunnels and climbs arranged in an obstacle course that the dog must complete off-leash as quickly as possible. The dog with the best time wins. Though certain breeds are more likely to excel at agility, it is fun for almost every dog, and training classes are available almost everywhere.

Climbing Obstacles

There are three climbing obstacles, also known as contact obstacles because the dog must put his feet in the 3-foot region at the beginning and end of the obstacle known as the contact zone for the climb to count. These obstacles, A-frame, see-saw and dog walk, involve climbing various heights and walking across beams not much wider than the dog. The biggest challenge while teaching these obstacles besides hitting the contact spot is fear, so move slowly with your dog and use only positive training to make it as fun as possible.

Teaching Contacts

The most important behavior to reinforce when training the climbing obstacles is how to hit the contact spots. Your dog might overlook these if she is excited to jump on or off, but this results in a disqualification. There are two main methods to teach contacts. The first involves putting a half Hula Hoop in front of the obstacle and after the obstacle and teaching your dog to walk through the hoop every time. If it doesn't, make it redo the obstacle. The other involves teaching your dog "touch." Say "touch" while holding a yogurt or sour cream lid in front of your dog. If it touches with its nose, reward. Practice until it touches automatically. Then place it at the end of each contact and teach it to touch each time out.

A-Frame

The A-frame is so called because, at full height, it looks like an A. Your dog must climb this steep incline as quickly as possible, hitting the contact zone on its way up and down. To teach this, start with the A-frame low to the ground and gradually build to full height as your dog gets more comfortable. Use treats or a toy to lure over the first few times while continuing to praise. If your dog seems fearful, move slowly and be positive. If your dog has recently suffered an injury, avoid the A-frame, as it is very strenuous activity.

Dog Walk

The dog walk is similar to the A-Frame, but after the climb, there is a plank that the dog must walk before going down again, hitting the contacts in both directions. Gradually acclimate your dog to this obstacle as well, beginning by teaching him to walk the plank while it's on the ground. Add height when your dog is comfortable.

Seesaw

The seesaw is often the most frightening for the dog because it moves exactly as a human seesaw. As your dog walks from one side to the other, the seesaw drops, which can be very unsettling for a dog unfamiliar with the obstacle. Again, begin with the seesaw on the ground, where it can't drop as the dog walks across it. Though it will still rock under its feet, this is much less scary. Reward as your dog walks across. Gradually increase it to full height, walking your dog across slowly the first few times, luring with treats. You can add in speed as your dog becomes more accustomed to the feel of the obstacle.

References

• Leerburg Training: Agility
• Agility Ability: Agility Explained
• "Excelling at Dog Agility--Book 1: Obstacle Training;" Jane Simmons-Moake; 1999