The History of Wire Jewelry

Twisted and woven wire jewelry has been traced back to biblical times.

Wire jewelry can be traced back to stories in the Bible, though most historians credit the ancient Phoenicians with the invention of wire jewelry. Since biblical times, the art of using metal wires to make interesting pieces of jewelry has undergone several transformations. As the craft spread throughout the world, it rose and fell in popularity. Today, many artisans have rediscovered wire wrapping and are producing unique forms of jewelry.

Biblical Origins

According to the Creations by Carol Ladine website, there are Bible references to wire jewelry in events preceding the writings of the Phoenicians of ancient Greece. Moses was given specific directions to create priestly garments featuring wire work adornments. The breast plate of Aaron, referenced in the Exodus chapter of the Bible, featured stones being set in gold filigree. These were perhaps the earliest forms of wire jewelry. It is also believed that biblical characters spread the art of wire work to the Egyptians.

Around 1900 B.C., a change occurred in the sarcophagus designs of Egypt. These coffins began to be adorned with strips of woven metals. Around this same time, there was an influx of Hebrews to Egypt as they fled the famines in Israel. It is believed that Hebrew jewelry makers taught the wire work craft to the Egyptians, according to the Wire Work Custom Jewelry website.

Ancient Greece

The Phoenicians of Greece are credited with developing the process of making metal wires, according to the Wrapped to Go Website. Gold and silver were hammered into thin sheets and cut into flexible wires. Ancient Greek wire jewelry was often adorned with beads shaped like flowers, beetles and shells. Wires were also woven into the breast plates of the Greek army. By 300 B.C., wire was set with multicolored gemstones, and jewelry trade reached a peak.

Roman Decline

As the Roman Empire rose to power, the Phoenicians' jewelry trade began to decline. As Greece lost power, evidence of wire jewelry began to decline. In fact, production of wire work jewelry declined for many centuries before resurfacing in Europe, according to Wire Work Custom Jewelry.

European Origins

Wire work jewelry began to reappear around the 8th century in France, according to the Creations by Carol Ladine website. Production of wire jewelry began to gain popularity as the craft grew and more artisans learned to make silver and gold wire. By the 13th century, wire production had become commercialized as silver and gold wires were traded with England. Most of the jewelry produced during this time featured crucifixes and religious symbols.

Victorian Age

The Victorian Age, from 1837 to 1901, gave rise to cameo jewelry, according to the Wire Work Custom Jewelry website. Cameos were set on wire chains, combining the popular art of sculpting with jewelry making. Many pieces produced in this era became family heirlooms, and many examples still exist today.

Retro Period

According to the Joden World Resources website, the Retro Period in the 1930s and 1940s brought about the rise of the wire jewelry market in America. Much of the metal was needed for the war effort, so artisans got creative. Colored gold strands rose in popularity, as did sculptural wire work. Gemstones recycled from heirloom jewelry were often set on woven or ribbon-like chains.

References

• Creations by Carol Ladine: History of Wire Art Jewelry
• Joden World Resources: Recent History of Jewelry
• Wire Work Custom Jewelry: History of Wire Art Jewelry
• Wrapped to Go: Wire Wrapped Jewelry History