Why Are Pleated Pants Pleated?
Designers change pant silhouettes, leg cuff dimensions and inseam lengths each collection season. Different design features have seen a resurgence in retro pant trends such as pleating and flared leg cuffs. Pleats are made from a series of folds and are usually associated with skirts, dresses and dramatic pleated gowns. However, pant silhouettes such as the tailored pant or the Bermuda short incorporate the pleat as well below the waistband.
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Defining a Pleat
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A pleat is defined as a fold of cloth. The folds are generally set lengthwise and are often times held in place by a straight seam stitch. A series of folds changes a simple pleat into different pleat types such as a kick, box, inverted or knife pleats.
Dissecting the Pleat
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A simple pleat is dissected into three different parts, also referred to as the three-part fold. There is an outer fold of the pleat. It is visible from the outside as it lies on the pant. The inner fold of the pleat is visible from the inside. The third part is the depth of the pleat. This dimension is arrived by measuring the distance from the inner part of the fold to the outer part. The inner part is the fold line of the pleat facing the fly front. The outer part of the fold is the part of the pleat facing the side seam of the pant.
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Types of Knife Pleats
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The knife pleat, which uses a single fold, is turned either to the left or to the right. Double knife pleats are two folds superimposed onto one another and the triple knife pleats are three fold layers superimposed onto one another as well.
Other Pleat Types
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By placing two knife pleats turned toward each other, a visible center opening is formed by the folds and is referred to as the inverted pleat. Box pleats also incorporate two knife pleats, however, the outer folds are turned away from each other. Kick pleats are generally associated with skirts and are positioned at the lower part of the skirt.
Transforming the Pant Silhouette with Pleats
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Although pleats are added to pants as an added design detail, it also adds width to the pant silhouette. Once the folds within the pleat opens, the hip width expands and naturally gives added room. By adding a lengthwise straight stitch along the fold line, the width is visually diminished.
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