Why Are Women's Clothing Sizes So Different?

Runway collections often dictate the season's upcoming silhouettes and trends. The garment's overall fit will impact a designer's sales. Apparel markets are now catering to women's body shapes and fit such as petites and plus sizes. Designers are also incorporating adjusted size dress forms to their sample rooms. Factors such as height, weight and body shape are key reasons why women's clothing sizes are manufactured differently.

Body Shape and Size Scales

Women's body shapes as well as height have led to added sizes within the industry standards of size four through 12. The standard size scale has increased to cater to sizes such as zero to two and 14 to 16. Specialized categories, such as petite, petite plus and plus sizes have also added size scales within the designer's collection.

Fit

Designers have fit sessions within each category. A standard size is selected within the size scale, which is referred to as the sample size. For example, the women's medium scale which includes sizes eight, 10 and 12, will usually fit a size 10 as the standard. The pattern-makers will grade the pattern up or down to accommodate the other sizes. This also will depend on the designer's target market. For instance, designers that cater to sizes zero through four, will have their sample size as a size two.

Width and Length

Patterns that are not made with a significant decrease or increase in width and length will effect the garment's overall fit. For example, wider waist and hip measurements impact the garment's fit and construction. A blouse with an added wider waist will have an altered chest measurement as well as an adjusted armhole. The height will impact the blouse's finished length. Shorter arm length and torsos, as well as less leg length effect sizing and require altered patterns. These changes must be made during the pattern phase to ensure proper garment fit and construction.

Grading Specifications

Pattern measurements will undergo grading specifications for each size scale manufactured by the designer. This is a term used for increasing or decreasing the pattern seams according to a specific size. This process is done for every style within the collection.

Styling

Fashion trends dictate the silhouettes for the upcoming seasons. Often times, trends are immediately cut into standard sizes and only particular styles that have minimal grading will also be cut in specialized categories such as petite and plus. Manufacturers that cater directly to these markets will add trendy pieces to their collection as well as modify silhouettes to ensure their customer looks their best in stylized trends.

Benefits

The garment industry benefits financially from adding sizes to their collections. This advantage opens up new sales by catering to specific women and their size scale needs. Often times when garments are manufactured within standard size scales women cannot purchase the same fashion items. Manufacturers are increasing their size scale plans as well as adding adjusted dress forms within their pattern rooms to accommodate the new fits.

Fit Differences

Designers establish their own in-house specifications per size, which is often based on the overall look of the collection. This is the main factor and reason why different brand garments that are labeled the same size, fit differently. For example, you can try on the size eight five-pocket jeans from two different designer brands and the fit can be completely different. The fit specifications approved by each different designer prior to production and construction used different waist, crotch depth and length as well as inseam measurements.

References

• "The Fashion Designer's Survival Guide, Revised and Expanded Edition: Start and Run Your Own Fashion Business";Mary Gehlhar and Diane Von Furstenberg; 2008
• "The Sewing Book"; Alison Smith; 2009