Value of Pearl Earrings

Your grandmother's heirloom earrings may be worth more than you think.

Because there is no internationally accepted standard of grading pearls, the value of pearl earrings is based on five primary factors: size, luster, shape, type, color, nacre, and texture. Secondary factors, such as brand name and other precious metals and gems used on the pieces, can also come into play. For instance, if you have two pairs of earrings that are identical in every other way, and one is from Chanel and the other is from a less popular designer, you will pay more for the Chanel set.

Acquisition

Since the beginning of the 20th century, pearls used for jewelry are cultivated, or "helped along" by oyster farmers. After an oyster has reached maturity, the farmer inserts a nucleus, usually a round bead of some type, into the oyster's shell. The oyster is then replaced in a wire basket and submerged into the sea. Over time, the oyster produces nacre, a pearly substance, that adheres to the nucleus, slowly becoming a thicker pearl. Oysters are then opened, and the pearl harvested, usually after about two or three years.

Types

Cultivated pearls are still considered real pearls, but there are some distinctions that can be made. Natural pearls are created when an irritant finds its way into the tissue of a oyster, which then secretes the nacre to coat the foreign body so that it no longer "chafes" the oyster. These natural pearls are extremely rare to find, due to the conditions and duration it takes to create a pearl of any commercial value. However, natural pearls that have had several years to form have a thicker nacre as they don't typically have the bead center, and may have grown larger than other cultivated pearls. Natural pearl earrings, because of their rarity, could be more highly valued.

Size

Typically, the larger the pearl on the earring is, the more it is worth, all other things being equal. This is because the pearl has taken longer to develop within the oyster and has a thicker nacre diameter. Pearl size is measured in millimeters, with most on the market for earrings ranging between 6.5 and 7.5 millimeters.

Luster

Nacre is actually made of layers of calcium carbonate crystals. The more layers of nacre there are the more reflective and shiny they become, which makes them more valuable. Generally, pearls from saltwater oysters are the more brilliant than their freshwater counterparts. If the pearl earrings look chalky or dull, they won't be worth as much. Flaws in the nacre, such as indentations, bubbles, bumps, and discolorations are formed when layers of nacre don't bond smoothly, and these imperfections will negatively affect luster.

Shape

Pearls made for earrings are more valuable if they are as perfect to spherical as possible, although they are rare. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Seas pearls tend to be rounder than freshwater pearls. If the earrings have flattened pearls, they are called buttons, tear-dropped shaped are called drop pearls, and asymmetrical pearls are called baroque. Although these alternate shapes may be desirable for a buyer, they typically do not make the earrings more valuable.

References

• MikimotoAmerica.com: Birth of a Pearl
• Pearl-Guide.com: Natural Pearls
• Pearl-Guide.com: Pearl Quality