White Gold vs. Platinum for a Ring Head

White Gold vs. Platinum for a Ring Head thumbnail
The head of a ring is generally fashioned with a precious metal such as platinum or white gold.

White gold and platinum are both precious metals possessing a cool, silvery tone. They are featured in all types of jewelry, including earrings, necklaces and rings, and are used to fashion the settings that hold gemstones in place. On a ring, the setting that secures a gemstone is sometimes referred to as the mounting or the head. When deciding whether to use white gold or platinum for a ring head, there are several factors to consider. Does this Spark an idea?

  1. Composition of White Gold

    • White gold is an alloy, or a combination of metals. It consists of yellow gold mixed with a white-colored metal---typically either nickel or palladium, or both. Because of its pale, cool color, white gold looks similar to both sterling silver and platinum. White gold comes in different karats, including 9 karat, which is about 37.5 percent pure gold; 14 karat, which is about 58.5 percent pure gold; and 18 karat, which is 75 percent pure gold. White gold cannot be 24 karat, because 24 karat gold is 100 percent gold and contains no other metals; consequently, it is always yellow. Most white gold jewelry is plated in rhodium, a white metal that functions to enhance the desirable white appearance of white gold. Rhodium plating does wear away eventually; white gold that has been rhodium plated may need to be re-plated every 12 to 18 months.

    Composition of Platinum

    • Platinum is considered to be a very pure metal. Still, like white gold, platinum is an alloy, or a combination of metals. The platinum used in jewelry in the United States consists of either 85, 90 or 95 percent pure platinum; the remaining five, 10 or 15 percent may be composed of copper, palladium, cobalt or tungsten. Platinum, like gold, is alloyed with other metals because it would be too soft otherwise. Because platinum is so white, it is never rhodium plated like white gold sometimes is.

    Durability of White Gold and Platinum

    • While white gold is stronger and more durable than pure or yellow gold, and is routinely used in ring heads or mountings to hold gemstones with success, it is not as durable as platinum. Because of platinum's density and weight, it is more durable than white gold. Platinum has a much higher melting point than gold, does not wear away and decrease in volume with time as gold and other metals do, and holds gemstones securely in place.

    Cost Difference Between White Gold and Platinum

    • Platinum is 35 times more expensive than gold. It is found in only a few places around the globe. Being up to 95 percent pure, it is also considerably more pure than white gold. Consequently, platinum is more costly than white gold. Depending on market fluctuations, platinum can cost anywhere from two-and-a-half to five times as much as white gold. Chances are, the metal you choose for your ring head will also be the metal used to form the band of your ring. Choosing platinum is the more expensive route, and will ensure a very durable piece, but choosing white gold may provide the advantage of allowing you more money to spend on the ring's gemstones.

    Caring for White Gold and Platinum

    • Both white gold and platinum are fairly easy to care for. You can clean both white gold and platinum jewelry with a soft toothbrush and a solution of a few drops of ammonia in warm water. Always avoid exposing white gold or platinum jewelry to household chemicals. To maintain the look of rhodium-plated white gold, have it re-plated periodically. Platinum does not require any type of re-plating.

    Symbolism of White Gold and Platinum

    • Like gemstones, precious metals are surrounded with lore, and believed by some to be symbolic of certain qualities. Gold, including white gold, is thought to represent perfection in all matter and on every level. It is associated with humanity's goal to achieve perfection in both mind and spirit. Platinum is associated with endurance. It represents such qualities as determination, grit and the ability to manifest our hopes, dreams and plans.

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  • Photo Credit colorful flowers and wedding band ring image by Paul Retherford from Fotolia.com

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