What Kind of Wire Is Needed for Wire Jewelry?

Copper is one wire used for making jewelry.

Wire is one of the most versatile jewelry-making materials. It can be used for chunky links and for delicate wire-crocheted jewelry. It is important to select the right wire for your project, both for aesthetics and durability. You will need to consider expense, size, color and strength when choosing a wire.

Metals

Jewelry wire comes in different kinds of metal. Select a metal to fit your budget. Copper wire and craft wire are the least expensive. Craft wire comes in all different colors, including silver- and gold-plated. Copper wire is soft, but it can be hardened by hammering. Craft wire can become brittle if overworked. Sterling silver and gold-filled wire are the choices for fine jewelry projects.

Wire Gauge

Wire comes in a wide range of different gauges. A wire with a smaller diameter has a higher gauge number. Chunky, hammered links and jewelry clasps should be made with a larger wire, such as 16- or 18-gauge. Use a 24- or 26-gauge wire to string delicate gemstones or pearls with small holes.

Wire Hardness

High quality jewelry wire is available in three degrees of hardness: full soft, half hard and full hard. Full soft wire offers flexibility, but no resistance. It is easy to manipulate, but can be easily bent out of shape accidentally. The process of working with full soft wire will harden it slightly, but it might need to be work-hardened later by hammering or tumbling. Select a half hard wire for most projects.

Wire-Wrapped Beads

Select a wire gauge for wire-wrapping beads depending on bead size and diameter of the hole in your bead. Larger wire will provide more strength for heavier stones and beads. Many gemstone beads have holes that will only fit a 26- or even 28-gauge wire. Choose a half hard wire for wire-wrapping projects.

Wire Crochet

Choose a thin, soft wire for making crocheted jewelry. Start with a dead soft 26-gauge wire to practice. Experiment with larger wire once you have developed a feel for crocheting with wire.

Wire Links and Coils

Wire links and coils will be stronger if constructed from larger wire. Choose a 16- or 18-gauge wire if you plan to flatten your links and hammer a pattern on them. Go with 20- or 21-gauge wire for tight coils; larger wire will be difficult to manipulate.

References

• "Easy Wire"; Wire Basics for Success!; Winter 2010
• "Easy Wire"; Technique: Wrapped Loops; Winter 2010
• "Easy Wire"; Technique: Coils; Winter 2010