Can You Put Ceramic Tile on a Concrete Basement Floor?

Outside tile on cement.

Yes, it is definitely possible to install ceramic tile to a cement subfloor and basement. The process is not technically complex. In fact, installation on cement is fairly straightforward. However, there are certain caveats and preparations that should be followed to prevent the project turning into a disaster because of moisture, ill-prepared surface, or bad preparation.

Before You Start

Preparation is the key to performing a good ceramic tile job right the first time. The first steps involve clearing the workspace of any materials or disturbance. Then the cement subfloor needs to be prepped. This includes roughing up the surface by sanding and eliminating bumps or lips of cracks in the cement that will cause an uneven level. Cracks should be filled and sealed with fillers or epoxys designed for cement. Once done, make sure the subfloor is completely washed and vacuumed of dust and dirt. Then you can begin the installation.

Midlayer or Not?

Since your tile is attaching straight to cement, you won't have a need for plywood or backer board as the layer between the tile and cement. It can be done, but it is not necessary. For areas with significant water exposure or oversplash, a layer of water proofing is recommended, however. Not doing so could allow water to creep in between tile layers and cause damage.

Direct Application Planning

The cement subfloor has to be roughed up for the tile adhesive to do its job. Failure to have the right surface texture and failure to make sure the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt can cause the newly applied tiles to come loose later on. Etching and removing any loose materials gives the adhesive a good gripping surface otherwise unavailable on smooth cement.

Lay your tiles on the floor to see how they look before you start using adhesive. This will give you a dry run to make any last-minute changes. It also helps identify which areas will need custom-cut tile to fit. Using lines can also help keep your tiles straight later when gluing down.

Special Touches

Getting the right look of ceramic tiles also includes being uniform about their placement. Unless you have a real good eye for measurement, most people need a bit of help. Tile spacers help solve this problem, giving you just the right width between tiles so their appearance is correct when installed.

There are also going to be some areas in which the factory tile doesn't fit. You will need a tile cutter to custom-shape these tiles to finish the job. You can rent or purchase one at most bigger hardware stores for as low as $120.

Placement and Curing

Once the tile adhesive is mixed per instructions, you can apply it directly to the cement and the tile bottom. Then place the tile in the proper location and tamp each one down with a rubber mallet to squish out any big air pockets that could cause a bump. Don't do a big surface all at once; the adhesive will dry too fast. Do a bit at a time with each tile and work your way across the floor. Remember to take your tile spacers out or they will get stuck to the adhesive. When done, give your adhesive and new tiles 24 hours to cure.

Grouting and Finish

The process will be finished by applying the grout to fill the gaps between your installed tiles. Wipe away excess grout that doesn't fill the gap correctly. Let it dry and your new floor is about done. While it's not required, sealing your grout will help protect it from dirt and stains later.

References

• Tile Installation"; The Tile Doctor; 2009.
• "Design with Flexibility -- Ceramic Tile Installation"; Matt Weber; Extreme How-To; 2009.
• "Installing Tile over Vynil, Wood & Concrete"; FloorsTransformed.com; 2009.