History of Neckties

The necktie, as we now know it, has been around for over 200 years--some sources claim over 300 years. But some form of a neck cloth had been used centuries before that. It took a while to become fashionable; and it took members of royalty and the social elite to move the necktie into the realm of acceptable fashion. It takes wealth and power to create fashion, so it is no wonder that once neckties became acceptable attire in wealthy circles, necktie-wearing spread like wildfire to lower income brackets.

Earliest Origins of Neckties

Origins of the necktie begin with China's first Emperor, Shih Huan Ti, who was buried in 210 B.C. He feared death so badly that he wanted to have the soldiers in one of his armies killed and buried with him so they could protect him from whatever was going on in the afterlife. But his councilors talked him into having a replica of his army made instead. These soldiers guarded his sarcophagus untouched and unbothered for nearly two millennia until at his burial place near Xian, China, nearly 8000 man-sized terracotta statues were found in 1974. They were carved using great care and detail, right down to their facial expressions. And though every single statue is different---depicting soldiers on foot and on horseback, officers and archers---every statue has one characteristic in common: they are all wearing a cloth around their necks. Speculation suggests that these neck cloths symbolize the respect that Shih Huan Ti had for his army, who would go through eternity protecting him.

Neck Cloths in Rome

Other depictions of male neckwear throughout history include a pillar that was erected by the great Roman emperor Trajan, who had the marble column constructed in 113 A. D. after he and his army conquered the Dacians---a people who lived in the area that is now Romania. The nearly 3000 personages carved into the column are each wearing one of three styles of neck attire, which is thought to have a similar meaning for Trajan's men as it did for those of Shih Huan Ti. Roman culture dictated that men did not normally wear cloth around their necks, unless you were an orator or effeminate. But soldiers were respected to the degree that their wearing of neck cloths was not questioned or frowned upon.

Influence of French Royalty

Louis XIV liked the silk kerchiefs worn by Croatian soldiers so much that he created an elite regiment called the Cravate Royale. The French word for "tie" is "cravat." The trend carried through the French royal and military ranks, and was even picked up by the peasant class.

Influence of English Royalty

When King Charles II returned to England to reclaim the throne after the Puritan Revolution (1660), people were sick of war and had a desire to enjoy the finer things in life, including plenty of food, fun, and dancing. Wearing the cravats the upper class brought with them from France was another luxury everyone wanted to be part of, and all classes of people picked up on this new fashion trend. During the 17th and 18th centuries, the materials used varied from imported Italian lace---for those who could afford it---to ribbon and cotton.

Modern Acceptance

Different groups have adopted different forms of neckwear over the years. British sailors wore a white and blue uniform with a blue scarf. Bandanas are a modern version of the cravat, and became popular with cowboys and frontier folk to keep dust off of their faces so they could breathe comfortably while traveling. Bandanas became a widely accepted part of western wear. The bow tie came into play during the 17th century, and really picked up steam during the 18th and 19th centuries. This tie style endured and has become a requirement for formal occasions.

References

• The History of Ties
• 2,000 Years of the Necktie