Facts on Bali Beads

The small Indonesian island of Bali is known for its traditions in the arts dating back to the 14th century. A bead made on the island of Bali is technically a Bali bead no matter the material, but in jewelry design, the term "Bali bead" refers to handmade sterling silver beads made in traditional patterns. Generations of silversmiths on the island of Bali have passed down bead-making methods and patterns. Artisans have continued to immigrate to Bali from nearby Java, bringing their traditions as well to add to the designs of Bali beads.

History

Examples of Indonesian bronzework can be found from as far back as 500 B.C. Rich agricultural land allowed the people of Java to focus energy on the arts. Jewelry in gold, copper and silver has been found in graves from the second millennium B.C. Bali was settled in the 1300s A.D. by Java's Majapahit Empire. Hindu artisans such as bead makers and metalsmiths fled Java for Bali as Java became more Islamic in the 1500s. Dutch explorers of that time remarked on the metalsmithing art of the Balinese, bringing knowledge of the artisans on this tiny island to Western culture. For themselves, the Balinese prefer gold jewelry. Demand from Western culture for silver influenced designers and metalsmiths to work in silver for export.

Significance

The Balinese believe all art is praise to the gods. Each handcrafted Bali bead is a tiny work of art, and the silversmiths put dedication into the creation of each bead.

Types

Sterling silver Bali beads are usually of two types: traditional Balinese designs of tiny silver spheres arranged in geometric patterns, called "granulation," and Javanese designs of fine wire filigree-work or beads with flat shiny surfaces and streamlined joints known as "plin."

Considerations

Since sterling silver has a purity of 0.925 and can be expensive, a market exists for beads made of lesser-quality metals. In the West, the temptation to find a bargain might lead a buyer to cheaply made beads rather than traditional true-sterling silver beads. Buyers seeking quality silver Bali beads should watch out for discoloration such as a reddish hue, yellowing, splotchy backgrounds from using ink rather than true oxidation for crevices, beads that are too light or too heavy to be silver, or beads that sound wrong when rattled together.

Expert Insight

Designers work closely with the silversmiths in Bali to create new designs. As any designer product, these Bali beads end up copied with cheap knock-offs and are sold on the streets in Celuk, Bali, for bargain prices. Jewelry designer Nina Cooper of Nina Designs points out that not only does this violate copyright, it floods the market with bogus jewels. Some beads on the market labeled as Bali beads are actually created in Turkey or India. Wary buyers should research their suppliers.

Resources

• History of Balinese metalsmithing
• How Bali Beads are made