History of Navajo Jewelry

American Indians have been known as skilled jewelry artisans for centuries. Different tribes are known to have different styles and designs. Among the most famous of American Indian jewelry is the squash blossom design associated with the Navajo Indians. The squash blossom design is a well known Indian emblem still popular today. The squash blossom and other iconic designs are influenced heavily by Mexican art and jewelry traditions. Yet, the Navajo are still crafting original jewelry that reflects both the history and heritage of their people.

Origin

The Navajo Nation is located on more than 27,000 square miles of land across Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. According to "The Beauty of Navajo Jewelry," a book by Theda Bassman and Gene Balzer Bassman, the Navajo Indians developed silversmithing skills from their Mexican neighbors around the mid-19th century. The book asserts that after the Navajo people were forced from their land by the U.S. government, they began developing the skill and trade that has become closely associated with the tribe's heritage.

Early Inspiration

The early Navajo jewelers took inspiration from the Spaniards. The Spaniards were heavily adorned with silver pendants such as the naja, a crescent shaped pendant. The Navajo adopted similar accessories which are still used today.

Stones

The most common and well known material used in Navajo jewelry is turquoise. Turquoise is considered to be a sacred stone that protects the wearer from harm. However, according to Jewelry-Paideia, a jewelry directory, other natural stones are also used, including coral and spiny oyster shell.

Techniques

One of the most common techniques associated with the Navajo people includes clusters. According to Every Perfect Detail, a Native American jewelry gallery, clusters consist of small similarly shaped stones arranged into flower patterns. Other popular Navajo silversmithing includes the early process of cast work and hand hammering. Cast work includes pouring silver into molds made of sand or stone. Hand hammering encompasses heating the silver and then hammering it into shape.

Dead Pawn

Today, members of the Navajo Nation still produce hand crafted authentic American Indian jewelry. However, there is also a considerable amount of "dead pawn" available. Dead pawn is controversial because it consists of family heirloom jewelry pawned in the 20th century due to hardship. Some Navajo people consider it bad luck to purchase or wear dead pawn.