History of Medieval Dresses

Living during the Middle Ages from 1000 to 1500, women dressed according to class, wealth and country. Wearing two tunics---an under and outer---was the stock style for most of those years. The tunic took on different looks with different fabrics and attachments. Lowering and raising the hems also changed the style of the dress. As the European middle class grew, women competed with the nobility and royalty in sumptuous jewels and precious metals applied to gowns. Near the end of the Middle Ages, the stage was set for dresses to become sculpted, fuller versions of the simple tunic. Portraits of Catherine de Medici show the evolution from simple shift to ornate, wider gowns

Tunics of 900 to 1000

Influenced by classical the Greek and Roman style of dress, 10th century medieval clothing was a study in contrast. Some women wore clothing so high it concealed the neck, while others wore clothing so tight there was no hiding her form. Two long tunics reached to the wearer's heels. The under shift was covered with an outer shift that hooked at the waist. Under dresses, worn with sleeves and secured at the wrist, was one style, while others wore the same style without sleeves. Female royalty and nobility wore an additional ermine-lined cloak.

Clothing from 1000 to 1100

From 1000 to 1100, women continued to wear two tunics, with the under dress being tighter and longer. The sleeves of this garment tightened at the wrist. The outer clothing was often white, while the under tunic was made of a variety of hues. A girdle hanging over the hips and secured at the waist became popular.

A Surcoat is Added: 1100 to 1200

Fastening a surcoat to the dress of layered tunics began during the 12th century. Attaching long bands to the sleeves of the under tunic added color to the gown, along with a robe fastened at the waist. The under attire was made from more costly materials of richer hues during this century.

Luxury is Added 1200 to 1300

Lavishing gold, silver, pearls and precious stones on the medieval dresses of the 1200 to 1300 period was the beginning of luxurious fashion. Tight bodices were featured on the gowns of choice, accompanied by a form-fitting jacket. If the gown was plain, these small coats were ornate with trim; and if the gown was embellished, then the jacket would be free of decoration.

Fuller Dresses: 1300 to 1500

Wearing fuller dresses with shorter trains began in 1300 and continued to 1500 with the onset of the Renaissance period. The blossoming gowns were shorter, and tight at the waist. Fur or velvet trim added more richness to this style. Sleeves on the dress hung long, with embroidering or fringe highlighting the edges. Arranging padding of whalebone and steel added to the fullness of the new style dress. This effect made way for paniers in later fashions.

Resources

• Costumer.org: 14th Century European Clothing