How the Midwest Indians Made Blankets & Clothes

American Indians from the Midwest, among them the Shawnee, the Miami and the Illinois, were, and are, diverse in language, clothing and customs. For millennia, these rich, self-sufficient cultures created their own technologies out of local materials and trade items, often from hundreds of miles away. Because of the wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, clothing and blankets had to be versatile and functional, but they were also attractive and culturally significant.

Materials

The most common material for clothing and blankets were skins. Deer, buffalo and smaller animals like beaver were commonly used for breach cloths, dresses, leggings, shoes and blankets. Local fibrous plants could be stripped and used for cord and thread to sew skins together, and with the addition of European influence, the Midwestern tribes began to incorporate cottons and silk into clothing designs. The popular ribbon shirt evolved from the design of a buckskin shirt using cotton instead of skins.

Tanning

Tanning is the chemical process to preserve skins and to make them suitable for use in clothing and blankets. It also makes the skins soft and flexible. The traditional tanning technique is called brain tanning. The flesh is completely removed from the hide and the hair is scraped off with a sharp stone tool. The hide is processed by rubbing it with a solution of the animal's brains and water. The hide is then stretched and dried near a fire. To use a hide for a blanket, Midwest Indians would leave the hair intact for more warmth.

Sewing

Traditionally, sewing needles were made from animal bones and were effective. Thread or cordage was made from animal sinew or plants. Both made strong, long-lasting bonds. Items were cut either with one sharpened stone or two, used like scissors.

Weaving

Weaving with cordage is an ancient tradition with the Midwestern Indians, but more for the creation of nets and bags than for clothing. Although finger weaving fibers was common in the Southeast, weaving for the Midwestern Indians came later. In the 17th century, European influence began to seep into the upper Midwest and with it came weaving. As the fur trade increased, and hides for clothing became more scarce, the Native people had to rely more on weaving or trading for cloth.

Embellishments

Clothing and blankets weren't merely functional; they were also means for expression and and outlet for art. Traditionally, a variety of natural materials, like stones, bone beads, seeds and feathers were incorporated into designs. Spiritual motifs and regalia for ceremonies were an integral part of the society. Later, Europeans introduced glass beads for trade, and they became a part of an art form that is active even today.

Resources

• Native Tech: Regional Clothing