Sateen is a fabric that has a luster and softness that makes it an attractive choice among fabrics. It tends toward a soft, luxurious feel and is found at a much lower cost than silk. Sateen is used in a variety of applications, from fashion to home decor. Its distinctive sheen makes it stand out.
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Sateen may have a satin-smooth finish but it is not satin. Sateen and satin are each woven from a different source fabric. Sateen is generally made of cotton. Satin is usually made of silk. Sateen resembles satin in its softness and shine. Both reveal a soft, silky, glossy finish on one side and a matte, flat finish on the underside. Both are made using similar weaving techniques.
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Sateen begins its life as cotton fibers. The cotton is then mercerized to soften the fabric. Mercerizing cotton creates a sheen through the use of sodium hydroxide (lye). The cotton fibers are soaked in a bath of the sodium hydroxide and then are rinsed in a neutralizing acid bath. The luster comes to the fabric when it is under tension or stretched as it is mercerized. Sateen holds dye extremely well and is lustrous to the touch and eye due to the mercerizing process.
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A sateen fabric resembles a satin because the weave structure is the same---four threads over one. This weave explains the sheen that sateen holds. Four threads together reflect light differently. Fabrics that place one thread over another, as in a plain weave, scatter the light, because the surface is broken up by the weave. Sateen uses the satin weave, which creates a smooth surface. Combine the satin weave with a mercerized cotton fiber and strong, luxurious sateen is created.
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The weight and "hand" of sateen make it perfect for drapery linings, sheets, duvet covers, quilting and lining in tailored clothing such as jackets and coats. It is also found in home and apparel market as place mats, napkins, tablecloths, soft handbags and accessories. Marimekko is a popular bedding designer that uses cotton sateen often in their designs.
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Sateen can be found in pattern variations. One such variation is striped sateen. Striped sateen is a woven in pattern that alters the satin pattern, thus creating a solid sateen stripe within the dull side of the sateen pattern. Other variations are a granite weave and a check weave. Sateen can also be printed on to create various patterns.
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