About Hand-Stitching

Hand-stitching, the process of sewing without machine help, has been used by humans for thousands of years. The invention of the sewing machine did not destroy hand-sewing, as some believe; rather, many tasks continue to require it. Modern hand-sewing differs from historical sewing in the complexity of approach and diversity of materials provided by today's industry.

Significance

Machine stitching is used for many projects, particularly in these times of mass production clothing and home decor. The sewing machine allows for fabric to be stitched faster, but does not necessarily turn out stitches that are stronger or neater than those that are hand-sewn. Hand-stitching can be just as useful as machine stitching, and will always be necessary for some tasks. Even regular machine users will undertake hand-stitching for projects that are delicate and full of detail, such as mending, quilting, embroidery and needlepoint. Finishing touches on garments usually need some degree of hand work as well, such as fastening shank buttons, stitching snaps and turning closures. Some home stitchers also prefer to attach lining and baste fabric by hand, while fashion couture houses have entire garments hand-stitched as a special touch.

Features

Hand-stitching involves the use of different specialized materials that change depending on the project at hand. Regular sewing entails a variety of sewing needles that come in many lengths and tip styles, such as ballpoint and sharp point. Ballpoint needles are used on knit fabric, since snagging is an issue, while sharp point needles are used on woven fabrics. Larger holes, or eyes, in a needle may be needed for thicker types of thread. Thread for regular sewing most often comes in 100 percent cotton, silk, 100 percent polyester and universal all-purpose. The more delicate silk and polyester thread is used on silk and polyester stretch fabrics, while cotton and all-purpose thread can be used on almost anything else. Other types of sewing, like embroidery or needlepoint, involve whole sets of specific needle and thread types best suited to them. Some of these needle types include darning, sharp crewel, quilting, tapestry and glover needles.

Function

The process of hand-stitching usually requires some training, as it depends on the deftness and skill of the stitcher. In most projects, a stitcher draws one end of an 18- to 24-inch piece of thread through the eye of a needle and ties it to the other end of the thread in a tight knot. The needle is then drawn through the fabric until the knot meets the fabric, and the needle is drawn through the fabric again. This creates a stitch, or 1 double line of thread holding 2 or more pieces of fabric together. Some projects may require a doubled-up length of thread to be drawn through the needle for extra strength, or only a single length of thread drawn through the fabric. Different stitch styles and thread are the deciding factors.

Types

The most common stitch is the backstitch. Backstitching creates a neat, continuous line on the top of the fabric with all of the work showing underneath. This is used to imitate machine stitches. Basting stitches are quick, temporary stitches used to put two pieces of fabric together. They are usually made long and loose for easy removal later. Blind hem stitching creates a stitch that is invisible from the top, and is most often used for taking up hems. Running stitches are used for seams, and gathering stitches are used to make gathers in fabric. Another common stitch, the slipstitch, is used to hold folded edges down and does not show from the top. Other types include the cross stitch, which crosses over itself, and the oversewing stitch, which is used to cover raw edges.

Considerations

Much of the trouble people have with hand-stitching comes from too little practice and training. Technique is learned through both teaching moments and personal experience. As beginner stitchers encounter difficulties and find solutions in their projects on their own, they learn what mistakes to avoid in future projects. Often, stitchers learn about the best tools, stitch methods, and thread and needle applications through trial and error, and devise their own tricks based on specific tasks they have had to perform many times. For example, many a beginner has learned the importance of using thimbles to protect the hand from harm and the fabric from blood by accidentally pricking themselves while working. Hand-sewing takes a great deal of patience and attention to detail to master.

Resources

• Dictionary of Stitches
• Sewing Stitches
• Basic Hand-Stitching