About Hemming
Hemming finishes the edges of a piece of fabric for use in clothing or the home. There are a number of possible hem finishes, each suited to a different use. Some hems create invisible finishes for fine garments, while others are sturdy and functional. Hemming can be done by hand or machine. Some sewing accessories can assist with hemming, including horsehair, hem tape, bias tape and curved pressing aids. Hemming can be done when sewing a garment, to repair a garment or to alter a garment for fit. Does this Spark an idea?
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History
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Hemming has changed over time with the introduction of more sophisticated sewing machines and equipment. Even after the introduction of the sewing machine, many people opted to do all hemming by hand. A neat hand hem produces an invisible hem finish with no stitches seen on the outside of the fabric. You will find hand sewn blind hems on many items of vintage clothing. Today, blind hems are used for some garments, but a visible top stitched hem is more common.
Function
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A hem serves to enclose the raw edge of fabric, protecting it from wear and creating a finished edge. Hem treatments can also incorporate weights to help with the fall of the fabric or horsehair to allow the garment to stand away from the body. Tailored jackets often have additional interfacing in the hem to keep the fabric smooth. Most fabrics will ravel if seams and edges are unfinished, so hems are critical to preserve the integrity of the fabric.
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Types
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There are several types of hems. A plain hem is simply turned up and stitched. A rolled hem is gently and carefully rolled into place by hand and stitched with fine thread. Rolled hems are commonly used for sheer delicate fabrics. Faced hems are most commonly seen in fuller garments and have a facing fabric stitched into place, turned up and sewn. A slip stitch works well for most hand sewn hems.
Considerations
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When choosing the right hem treatment for a garment, you need to consider the type of fabric and the expected level of wear. A delicate silk scarf needs an equally delicate invisible rolled hem. A child's play smock is better suited to a quick and sturdy machine sewn hem. Machine sewn hems are ideal for tucked in shirts and blouses, T-shirts, and sleepwear. Hand sewn blind hems, perhaps with binding or hem tape incorporated, work well for skirts and pants.
Aids
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Some sewing accessories can make hemming easier and faster. Consider using hem tape or twill tape to create sturdy and quick hems. Sew in lace hem tape is especially helpful if hemming a full skirt with a curve. Twill tape can create especially strong and durable hems for trousers and reduce wear. If you are in a hurry, iron-on hem tape works well for quick, albeit not long-lasting hems on pants or straight skirts.
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