About Japanese Clothing

History

Women and men have worn the robe-like "kimono," which means "things to wear," for centuries. Kimono is both the singular and plural form of the word. Women used to wear a kimono every day, but now it is usually worn only on special occasions. In today's modern world, the Japanese woman normally owns one kimono that she received when turning 19 or when she came of age. On her wedding day, she will rent an elaborate bridal kimono for the ceremony. Women started wearing kimono about 800 A.D. They would wear several layers of different kimono with the edges of the sleeves and collars displaying the various shades. Women who were in the royal court could put on as many as 16 layers. The material was a very refined silk with deep colors, which was very costly. A very destructive earthquake and World Wars I and II destroyed many of these original kimono. As industry came to Japan many years later, the kimono began to be woven on machines. Now they are mostly made in factories and are much more affordable. There are two main categories of kimono: The first, for unmarried women, are with long sleeves and with bright colors and elaborate patterns. The second are for married women to wear in ceremonies and rituals.

The Japanese obi, or sash, is the most important accessory of the Japanese kimono. The obi is tied around the kimono with a big bow in the back. During the Edo Period, from 1603 to 1867, the obi became an important element to the kimono, and it could be tied in a variety of ways. Historically the kimono had been the most outstanding fashion. However, as the kimono design became less elaborate with mechanization, weavers and dyers began focusing their artistic creativity on how to design different exquisite obis. Today, the obi is often considered the prized design rather than the kimono, and frequently costs more.
Getting dressed took Japanese women a long time. They had many layers under their kimono and then had to put on this difficult sash. Often, another person would have to help the woman with the obi and to tie it in the correct manner. The traditional obi was over 13 feet long and more than 20 inches wide. After the width is folded in half, the length of the obi is wrapped two times around the woman's waist and knotted in the back. Now, of course, it is possible to buy pre-tied obi belts that are much simpler to wear. They are still attached to the back of the kimono, but they are easy to attach and look just like a beautiful butterfly.

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The formal kimono is now worn for only special events. There is also another form of Japanese clothing that looks something like the kimono, but is very different in design and use. It is the linen or cotton "yukata." The yukata, which both men and women wear, means "bath under clothing." In the earliest Japanese history, nobles would wear these simpler robes when getting out of the communal bath. Then warriors began to wear them and finally the average man, woman and child. Now, people wear the yukata for many different reasons, from a robe at night to summer clothing to festivals. When people stay in Japanese-style inns, they may also find the yukata in their closet, similar to the bathrobes in Western hotels. In fact, it is still the most worn clothing because it is comfortable and lightweight.

Japanese traditional shoes look very different from the ones that are worn in Europe or the United States, because they have blocks of wood under the sandal or clog. The "geta" wooden or vinyl sandals are worn with white socks and come in a variety of colors. Red and black are worn the most. The term "geta" comes from the "click-clack" sound that the shoes make on the ground when worn. These shoes were designed specifically for practicality. When a woman is wearing a very fashionable and expensive kimono, she does not want it to touch the ground and get dirty or wet. Women had to learn how to walk with these high shoes, especially when wearing their constraining kimono. Less formal sandals are called "zori" or "tatami," which are made with vinyl or straw. They also come in many different colors and materials. They are now worn for special events only.

Japanese women also have a traditional wedding kimono, like the Western woman has her wedding gown. It is a white kimono called the "shiro-maku" or "white" and "pure." This elaborate kimono combines a number of different kimono. First, the white kimono is worn for the marriage ceremony. For the reception, the bride puts on a beautiful silk brocade kimono over the wedding kimono. This brocade kimono, called "uchikake," is adorned with flowers and bird patterns and can be one of many colors from red to purple to green. Today, many women then put on a Western-style wedding gown. The woman's hair is styled with much detail and adorned with ornaments and combs. She also wears a wedding hood that signifies that she will fulfill her responsibilities as a wife patiently and serenely. These weddings show how both the past and present are woven together in Japanese history, as with many other aspects of this complex culture.